Chef's Notes

 
 
Chef Renzo
September 2007
 
Heirloom Tomato Heaven 

Heirloom tomatoes take their time ripening, just like wine grapes. Our long growing season here in the Russian River Valley gives both these vines time to develop deeply flavored fruit.

This time of year, as you travel Westside Road from Healdsburg to Hop Kiln Winery, you will see Tomato Heaven on the left, just about two miles from town.  Here, a local family grows 180 heirloom varieties.  They place a pop-up tent next to the field and sell an array of delicious, vine-ripened tomatoes.  They label the varieties; for example, "Black Prince sends any tomato into the stratosphere."  This organic farm uses the honor system: customers weigh the tomatoes, use the handy cost-calculating chart and put money in the till.

I am growing heirloom tomatoes in the garden at Kenwood Inn and Spa, and I pick them when they are ripe but firm.  Stored outside in a dark place, they keep well for a week or so.

The big ones are my favorites; sliced, they are like pieces of meat.  Here is a simple, tasty salad that features a variety of these tomatoes - striped, red, yellow, your choice.

For each serving, use a cold salad plate.  Pour a little extra virgin olive oil on the plate; add salt and freshly ground pepper.  Slice the unpeeled tomatoes and arrange them over the oil.  Thinly slice red onions and drop a few pieces over the tomatoes.  Drizzle with fig balsamic vinegar, available in our Tasting Room.  Shave ricotta salata cheese over the top and finish with thin slices of fresh basil.  This, too, is tomato heaven.  Enjoy with a glass of Hop Kiln Sauvignon Blanc.

June 2007

White Peaches and Wine

This year in Sonoma County the chilly winter and mild spring weather provided perfect conditions for peach tree flowering and fruit set. The crop is huge, juicy and flavorful. The early white peaches, with delightful names like Spring Snow, Sugar Lady and Summer Sweet, are at the Farmers’ Markets right now. Last evening I peeled two white peaches, thinly sliced them and placed them in a glass pitcher. I opened a bottle of Thousand Flowers and poured half of it over the peach slices. After 30 minutes in the refrigerator, the fruit and wine had exchanged flavors. Before our dinner of green salad and linguine with clam sauce, we drank the cold, refreshing wine and enjoyed the summery peaches dressed in Thousand Flowers.

May 2007

 
Try this bruschetta; it is out of this world. Bruschetta is the ancestor of garlic bread. This version features fresh fava beans, plentiful at farmers’ markets this month. Purchase a lot, because 4 pounds of beans will yield about 1 ½ pounds shelled – and that’s before you peel them.

March 2007

PASQUETTA, Easter Monday

In Italy, Easter Sunday is a day when family members worship and feast together.  Region by region there are seasonal culinary traditions for this occasion.  Caprito is a favorite in the Veneto, my home in northern Italy.  I have wonderful memories of Easter, but Pasquetta – Easter Monday – was even better.  While Easter is for the family, Pasquetta is for everyone:  cousins, friends, neighbors, uncles, aunts, infants, teenagers, nonni.  We packed up food (including leftovers) and wine, jumped in the car and, depending on the weather, drove to the mountains or the Adriatic Sea.  We celebrated the coming of spring with a glorious, lively picnic.

I recommend you adopt the Pasquetta (pronounced pa squay tah) tradition.  Have a picnic on Easter Monday (April 9 this year).  Share your hard-boiled Easter eggs and leftover lamb; add some fresh cheeses and foccacia.  Bring along some strawberries and bottles of our spring releases:  2006 Gewürztraminer, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 Chardonnay, non-oaked.

February 2007

A Valentine Dinner from Chef Renzo

January 2007

Recipes
Orange Salad Dressing
From the town of Healdsburg, you drive about 6 ½ miles along rural Westside Road to reach Hop Kiln Winery. Before you reach the winery, you will pass – on the left – a picturesque, old orchard of huge orange trees – in full fruit this month. January is harvest time for Sonoma County citrus. This salad dressing features fresh orange flavors and aromas, at their peak right now. 

December 2006

Recipes
Succulent Cracked Crab
I am a shellfish lover, and the Dungeness crab is my winter favorite. The fishing season opened off the Sonoma Coast just a few weeks ago, and there is a large supply of good-sized crabs.

Winter Salad
This salad is light and hearty at the same time – perfect for this season.

The Indispensable Utensil
I couldn't cook without my 10-inch chef's knife. I use it for everything, including paring potatoes (which surprises visitors to my kitchen). A good chef's knife is a life-long companion. I take good care of mine, sending it to the old Columbus Cutlery in San Francisco for sharpening.

Trapani Artisan Sea Salt
This hand-harvested salt - pure, healthy and full of minerals - is produced the traditional way, without additives. I put regular salt in my pasta water, but for every other purpose I use Trapani Sea Salt. I grind it in a pepper mill. It has a fresh, salty taste; a little goes a long way. You can find it in Italian grocery stores.